From the stars of New York’s downtown scene to Paris’s luxury powerhouses — here’s Vogue’s recap of the top 10 trends that will dominate in 2020.
The trend: visible underpinnings
Where we’ve seen it: Givenchy, Rokh, Lanvin, Loewe, Mugler, Chloé, Versace What you need to know: a wave of early Nineties bodycon returned to the spring/summer 2020 catwalks with corseted bodices at Chloé, Rokh and Versace. Casey Cadwallader’s epic spring/summer 2020 show at Mugler brought us Bella Hadid in a buttock-revealing bodystocking, with the American designer delivering a unifying message on body-confidence. Bolder still was the array of upscale bra-tops at Loewe and Givenchy, which put that most feminine of objects in the global spotlight.
The trend: pencil skirts
Where we’ve seen it: Versace, Miu Miu, Gucci, Bottega Veneta What you need to know: Gucci’s Alessandro Michele may be best known for his red-carpet worthy flounce and decadent embellishment, but the feted creative director told a new story for spring/summer 2020. Neat pencil skirts are now the order of the day across the luxury Italian fashion houses, where minimalist iterations (also seen at Bottega Veneta and Gucci) are recasting the ladylike look as part of an ultra wearable, modern uniform.
The trend: draping
Where we’ve seen it: JW Anderson, Atlein, Lanvin, Oscar de la Renta What you need to know: the revival of goddess-like draping (spotted first at NYFW on the catwalks at Proenza Schouler, Sies Marjan and Oscar de la Renta) offers an artful reboot of the springtime dress. In London, JW Anderson’s fluid, form-grazing designs were a unanimous hit among fashion editors. While in Paris, the look belonged to Atlien, where label founder Antonin Tron’s sinuous spring/summer 2020 designs came with a sustainable kickback: Vogue reported that 60 per cent of the fabric used was deadstock, sourced from mills and factories across Italy.
The trend: white shirt 4.0
Where we’ve seen it: Burberry, The Row, Bevza, Maryam Nassir Zadeh The brand’s desire to create a perfectly executed product that offers everyday utility and luxury in one wasn’t lost on designers or showgoers. The FROW that fell head over heels for the flawless iterations of the unisex shirt on The Row’s spring/summer 2020 runway (and later Burberry’s neat design at LFW) are likely to be the same demographic that will be carrying the iPhone 11 immediately after its release. This new shirting doesn’t boast frills or gimmicks — indeed, it doesn’t boast at all. (The same goes for Celine spring/summer 2020’s no-nonsense pinstripe shirt). It’s not meant to be styled asymmetrically and there’s conspicuously no hint of embellishment. Consider this your most user-friendly investment piece.